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  • Behind the Print: How Printed Fabrics Are Made

    14 August 2025 by
    Priya Singh
    | No comments yet
    From Artisan Hands to Digital Mastery – The Journey of Every Printed Fabric 

    Ever admired a printed fabric and wondered how its patterns came to life?

    Whether it’s a timeless floral saree, a breezy cotton kurta, or a designer chiffon dress, the magic lies not just in the fabric — but in the printing technique behind it. At Tessuti, where every textile has a story, we invite you to step behind the scenes and explore how prints are created, layer by layer, from the traditional to the modern.

    Let’s uncover the fascinating world of Block Printing, Screen Printing, and Digital Printing.

    Block Printing: Where Heritage Meets Hand

    The Soul of Indian Craftsmanship

    Block printing is one of the oldest fabric printing techniques in the world — a living tradition passed down through generations in artisan families across Rajasthan and Gujarat. It’s slow, meticulous, and deeply soulful.

    How it Works

    • Artisans carve intricate motifs into wooden blocks — sometimes passed down as family heirlooms.
    • These blocks are dipped into natural or pigment dyes.
    • They are carefully hand-pressed onto the fabric, one repeat at a time.

    Each piece carries small variations — signs of human touch, not machine perfection. That’s what makes it art.

    The Feel of the Fabric

    Block prints often use breathable fabrics like cotton, mulmul, silk, and chanderi, which absorb the natural dyes beautifully. The prints are earthy, rustic, and full of character.

    You’ll Love It If You...

    • Adore traditional, ethnic, or handmade styles
    • Appreciate imperfections as beauty
    • Value sustainable, small-batch craftsmanship

    Famous Block Print Styles in India
    Print Style
    Region Signature Motifs Fabric Types
    Bagru Print Rajasthan Floral vines, bootis, mud resist Cotton, mulmul, silk
    Sanganeri Print Rajasthan Fine floral patterns, paisleys Soft cotton, voile
    Ajrakh Print Gujarat, Sindh Geometric symmetry, stars, flowers Organic cotton, modal, silk
    Dabu Print Rajasthan Mud-resist indigo motifs Cotton, chanderi, handloom
    Kalamkari (Block style) Andhra Pradesh Mythological scenes, peacocks Cotton, silk blends
     Block Prints Styles in India
    Bagru Print

    Originating from Bagru village in Rajasthan, Bagru print is a traditional block printing technique known for its mud-resist dyeing, earthy colors, and floral or geometric motifs. Handcrafted by the Chhipa community, it uses natural dyes like indigo, rust, and black, applied with wooden blocks on cotton or handloom fabrics.

    Each piece reflects heritage, sustainability, and artisan skill — making Bagru print a timeless choice for ethnic and contemporary fashion.

    Sanganeri Print

    Hailing from Sanganer near Jaipur, Sanganeri print is famous for its fine floral motifs, delicate patterns, and use of bright colors on white or pastel backgrounds. Made using hand-block printing, it features intricate designs like paisleys, vines, and bootis — often printed on soft cotton and voile.

    Elegant and lightweight, Sanganeri prints are perfect for kurtis, sarees, and summer dresses.


    Ajrakh Print

    Originating from Kutch, Gujarat, Ajrakh print is known for its complex geometric patterns, deep indigo and madder hues, and precise double-sided block printing. Made using natural dyes and a multi-step resist-dye process, Ajrakh reflects rich heritage, symmetry, and slow craftsmanship.

    Ideal for cotton, silk, and modal, it’s a favorite for dupattas, sarees, and ethnic wear with depth and character.

     
    Dabu Print

    Dabu print is a centuries-old mud-resist hand block printing technique from Rajasthan, known for its earthy patterns and deep indigo tones. Artisans use a mix of mud, gum, and sawdust to block parts of the fabric before dyeing, creating stunning resist motifs.

    Printed on cotton and handloom fabrics, Dabu prints are loved for their organic look, soft feel, and eco-friendly charm — perfect for ethnic and everyday wear.

    Kalamkari (Block style)

    Kalamkari block printing is a traditional art from Andhra Pradesh, known for its mythological themes, floral borders, and folk-style motifs. Unlike pen-drawn Kalamkari, this style uses wooden blocks and natural dyes to create bold, storytelling designs on cotton and silk fabrics.

    Rich in culture and color, it's ideal for sarees, dupattas, and ethnic sets with an artistic touch.

    Screen Printing: The Bold Expression of Color

    A Perfect Marriage of Art and Precision

    Screen printing brought a wave of color to textiles in the 20th century. It’s loved for its bold, bright, and graphic appeal — and its ability to produce vibrant prints at scale.

      How it Works

    • A stencil (screen) is created for each color in the design.
    • Fabric is laid out flat.
    • Using a squeegee, each color is pushed through its screen onto the fabric.

    Every print is layered with care, and the final curing process locks in the color.

    Why It Stands Out

    Screen printing is a favorite for commercial designers because it:

    • Produces uniform results over large batches
    • Works well on a variety of fabrics (cotton, poly blends, rayon)
    • Allows for bold color blocking, outlines, and statement patterns

    You’ll Love It If You...

    • Like modern, trendy, or graphic prints
    • Want sharp patterns and strong color contrast
    • Are designing in bulk or for retail-ready garments

    Popular Print Styles with Screen Printing
    Print Type Popular Usage Areas Design Features
    Floral Prints Kurtis, dresses, shirts Large or small flowers, vines, buds
    Abstract Prints Western wear, kaftans Geometric shapes, brush strokes
    Tropical Prints Resortwear, shirts Palms, leaves, birds, bright colors
    Butta Prints Sarees, dupattas, ethnicwear Small repeating motifs all over fabric
    Motif Repeats Casual wear, kidswear Simple icons (hearts, stars, animals)

    Floral Prints

    Floral prints are timeless and versatile, featuring flowers, vines, and botanical motifs in endless styles — from delicate pastels to bold, tropical blooms. Perfect for dresses, kurtis, sarees, and home décor, floral prints add a touch of freshness, femininity, and elegance to any fabric.

     
    Abstract Prints

    Abstract prints feature artistic, free-form designs like shapes, strokes, textures, and non-traditional patterns. Bold or minimal, they add a modern, creative edge to fabrics — perfect for contemporary dresses, tunics, and Indo-western outfits.

    Tropical Prints

    Tropical prints bring a vibrant, vacation-ready vibe to fabrics with motifs like palm leaves, exotic flowers, birds, and lush greenery. Bursting with color and energy, they’re ideal for resort wear, kaftans, shirts, and breezy summer dresses.

    Butta Prints

    Butta prints feature small, repeating motifs like florals, paisleys, or traditional symbols evenly spread across the fabric. Elegant and versatile, they’re widely used in kurtis, sarees, dupattas, and ethnic sets, offering a classic, all-over printed look.

    Motif Repeats

    Motif repeat prints use a single design element—like florals, shapes, or symbols—repeated at regular intervals across the fabric. Clean and structured, they’re perfect for shirts, dresses, kidswear, and modern ethnic styles, offering a balanced and stylish look.

    Digital Printing: Creativity Without Limits

    The Future of Fabric Printing

    Digital printing is the most advanced method in textile design — using technology to translate high-resolution artwork directly onto fabric. It removes the limits of color, detail, and minimum order size.

    How it Works

    • A design is created digitally (using graphic software).
    • The fabric is pre-treated to absorb ink better.
    • A specialized textile printer “prints” the design onto the fabric — much like your office inkjet printer, but on a larger, professional scale.
    • The fabric is heat-set to fix the colors.

    Why It’s a Game-Changer

    • Infinite colors and detailing — even photographic prints are possible
    • Works on both natural and synthetic fabrics
    • Perfect for custom orders, sampling, or low MOQ production
    • Environmentally friendlier — uses less water and less waste

    You’ll Love It If You...

    • Want unique or complex artwork
    • Need quick turnaround or small batches
    • Are designing for luxury, fashion-forward, or personalized markets

    Comparing the Three Printing Techniques

    Feature Block Printing Screen Printing Digital Printing
    Human Involvement Fully Handcrafted Manual + Machine Fully Digital
    Design Style Ethnic, Traditional Bold, Graphic, Repeated Creative, Detailed
    MOQ Medium High Very Low
    Cost (per piece) Higher Medium Low to High (custom)
    Time to Produce Slow (Artisanal) Medium Fast
    Sustainability High (natural dyes) Moderate High (less water & waste)

    The Print You Choose Tells a Story

    Whether you’re drawn to a hand-printed cotton floral or a digitally designed chiffon dream, the print you choose reflects your style — and also the craft behind it.

    At Tessuti, we proudly offer a curated selection of printed fabrics made using all three techniques. From handcrafted block prints that tell ancestral tales to digitally printed masterpieces bursting with modern flair — every fabric you see is part of a bigger story.


    Next time you hold a printed fabric, look closely — and you might just feel the hands, history, or code behind it.
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